5 minute read
When choosing a lash lift system, the type of solution used can make a big difference to both the final results and the condition of the lashes.
Most professional lash lift formulas fall into three main categories:
- Thioglycolate (TGA)
- Cysteamine
- Hybrid formulas (TGA + Cysteamine)
Each works slightly differently, offering its own balance of processing speed, control, and curl strength. Understanding how these systems behave can help lash artists choose the most suitable option for different clients and lash types.
We wrote this guide based on well-known products currently on the market. Of course, formulas vary widely between brands, and factors like pH level and ingredient concentration can make direct comparisons difficult. However, these observations reflect the general patterns we’ve seen after working with a wide range of lash lift products.
Let’s break it down.
Thioglycolate (TGA) lash lift system
Thioglycolate-based solutions have been used in hair restructuring treatments for decades and are known for their fast and powerful processing ability.
Processing time
Step 1 creams in TGA formulas typically process within 5–9 minutes, making them one of the fastest lash lift options available.
Some formulas with lower TGA concentrations (especially those designed for both lash lifts and brow lamination) may process more slowly, sometimes taking up to 15–20 minutes.
Results
Because TGA breaks down the lash’s disulfide bonds quickly, it can create very strong and long-lasting lifts. This makes it particularly effective for medium to coarse or resistant lashes.
Things to keep in mind
Since TGA works quickly, it can also be easier to over-process lashes if timing isn’t carefully controlled.
For this reason, many lash artists prefer applying TGA mainly to the base and mid-section of the lashes, rather than all the way to the tips. For a long time, “don’t apply to the tips” was one of the industry’s common rules.
Skin sensitivity
Higher-strength TGA formulas (often designed for lashes only) are usually not recommended for brow lamination, as they may cause irritation on the skin.
Lower-strength versions designed for both lashes and brows tend to be gentler.
Odour
Traditional TGA systems often have a strong chemical smell, especially when ammonia is included in the formulation. This distinctive scent can sometimes make clients and artists uncomfortable during treatment.
Cysteamine lash lift system
Cysteamine-based systems are often positioned as a gentler alternative to traditional TGA formulas. Many modern formulas, especially those used in Korean lash lift techniques, are based on cysteamine.
Processing time
Step 1 creams typically process much more slowly, usually around 6–17 minutes.
They may process quickly on fine or damaged lashes, but for medium to thick lashes, the processing time can become significantly longer.
Artists who switch from TGA to cysteamine sometimes feel that Step 1 “isn’t working” at first, simply because the softening process is much slower.
Results
Because the softening process happens gradually, cysteamine systems often create softer, more natural-looking curls rather than extremely strong lifts.
You can generally process the tips of the lashes as well, but leaving the cream on for too long can still lead to over-processing.
Best suited for
Cysteamine systems are often recommended for:
- Fine to medium lashes
- Clients who receive lash lifts regularly
- Clients who prefer softer results
Things to consider
Unlike TGA, which tends to evaporate more easily after treatment, cysteamine may remain on the lashes and surrounding skin for longer.
Combined with the longer processing time, this can sometimes increase the risk of skin sensitivity or irritation, particularly during brow lamination treatments.
In lash lift services, some clients may experience temporary redness or swelling around the waterline.
Odour
Cysteamine formulas are generally less odorous than traditional TGA systems, although they still have a noticeable scent.
Hybrid lash lift system (TGA + Cysteamine)
More recently, many modern lash lift systems have started using hybrid formulas, combining both TGA and cysteamine.
Many Korean lash lift systems use this approach because it offers a balanced combination of speed, control, and gentleness.
The Alba Re;Set Lash Lift System, developed in Korea, is also designed around this hybrid concept.
Processing time
Step 1 creams in hybrid systems typically process within 5–10 minutes, providing efficient treatment times while still allowing artists enough control.
Results
By combining both active ingredients, hybrid systems can produce strong, long-lasting curls while maintaining flexibility during processing.
In most cases, the cream can be applied through the full length of the lashes, including the tips. However, for weaker areas, it’s often recommended to remove the cream earlier.
Versatility
Because of this balance, hybrid formulas tend to work well for a wide range of clients, including:
• First-time lash lift clients
• Returning clients
• Fine, medium, or resistant lashes
Skin comfort
Shorter processing exposure can help reduce the likelihood of irritation, making hybrid systems suitable for both lash lifts and brow lamination.
Odour
The scent profile is typically milder and closer to cysteamine-based systems, although this varies depending on the specific formulation.
Why Hybrid Systems Are Becoming More Popular
As lash lifting techniques continue to evolve, many modern systems are moving toward hybrid formulas because they offer a practical middle ground.
For lash artists, this can mean:
- Faster processing than cysteamine-only systems
- More control than pure TGA formulas
- Reduced risk of damage when used correctly
- Consistent results across different lash types
- A more comfortable treatment experience with less odour and irritation
This balance is one of the reasons hybrid lash lift systems are becoming increasingly popular among professional artists.
Final Thoughts
Understanding the differences between TGA, cysteamine, and hybrid lash lift systems can help lash artists choose the right product for different clients and lash types.
As the industry continues to evolve, more brands are focusing on formulas that combine performance, control, and lash health, giving professionals greater flexibility to create beautiful, safe, and consistent results.
